Leicestershire Climbs

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Home Morley Quarry
Morley Quarry

OS ref. SK476179 (Sheet 129)

SITUATION and CHARACTER

Morley Quarry is situated half a mile south of Shepshed. The crag has seen some developments over the last six years or so and is now home to a handful of worthwhile boulder problems and routes. The majority of the east facing side of the quarry is held together by huge bolts and is best left well alone.The west facing walls have seen the most attention and are now home to 14 short routes and boulder problems.

 

APPROACH

 

From junction 23 on the M1, take the A512 towards Shepshed.  At the second set of traffic lights turn left towards Oaks in Charnwood. After 200m turn left onto Morley Lane. Park in the car park at the end. The entrance to the quarry is on the right just before you enter the parking area.

 

ACCESS

 

There are no known access issues at present.


 

THE CLIMBS

The first climbs recorded are on the north facing walls at the south end of the quarry.

 

Quarries Initiative F7a 12m

Two bolts protect to a lower off. Climb the face direct.

FA Robin Richmond 7.7.15

 

One Move Wonder F6b+ 12m

The short wall 2m right of the last route. A hard move past the first bolt leads to an easy finish.

FA Robin Richmond 7.7.15

 

Fill Ya Load 7b+

At the left end of the wall start at an undercut in a square cutaway. Climb up to gain a flake below the slab, move right to avoid the bolt. Climb the slab above with care.

 

Clint’s Left handed shuffle 5+

Start at a wide flared crack, climb up and right to gain the groove which is followed airily to the top. Can be linked along the crimps into the finish of Don't Fall Down at 6b+

 

The Traverse 6a

Traverse at a low level either way.

 

Lick the Lizard 5+

Start left of the large fractured overlap. Climb up and left to gain the groove which is followed to the top.

 

Don’t Fall Down 6b+

From the left side of the large fractured overlap climb direct using the line of crimps aiming for the small ledge just below the top.

 

Smash and Grab 6b

From the hole in the centre of the fractured overlap climb direct through a gap in the overlap.

 

Jelly Leg Groove 6c (E2 6a)

Start at the bottom of the slope directly below the hanging block. Make a hard sequence up the initial wall to gain the hanging block. From here move right into and up the groove to finish. Has been done from a sit start at the same grade.

 

The Squid 7b

Start on the right of the blank slab standing on the low good foothold with the left. Climb up using the small triangular hold in the crack to gain the large layaway with the right. Finish direct up the way to the ledge. All the big holds to the right on Derek's Dilemma are off line.

 

Derek’s Dilemma 4+

Starting at a bent tree growing from base of the crag, step off the tree and climb the wall trending left to obvious flake holds.

 

Down to Earth 6a

1m right is a thin crack climb this avoiding holds on problems either side

 

Teresa's Crack 9m VS 4c

Climb the rightward slanting crack 6m left of New Rose.

 

 

Jonny's Dilemma 6a.

The wall 1m right of Teresa's Crack. Keeping out the crack.

 

New Rose 7m HVS 5a

Climb the wall left of the overlaps starting at the horizontal drill scar.  Move up to the horizontal break (peg runner).  Make a difficult move right to finish on good jugs.

 

The next routes lie on the opposite (left) side of the quarry entrance on a graffiti covered buttress.

 

Builder's Arête 15m VD

Climb the slab and up the arête to a loose finish.  Tree and fence belay.

 

Latent Wall 15m HS 4b

Climb the slab and then move left along the break to climb the wall above direct.  Traverse right and finish up the arête.