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Home Granitethorpe Quarry

Granitethorpe Quarry

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SITUATION and CHARACTER

Granitethorpe Quarry is a partially water-filled hole about half a mile north-east of Sapcote village. Until recently climbing here was a particularly non inspiring thought; all the climbs had become totally overgrown due a lack of attention. However the crag has had a make over at the hands of local climbers who have transformed the quarry into a venue well worth a visit. The majority of the climbs would be ideal for the lower grade climber with the easy angle of the slabs and an abundance of good gear placements. The Great slab is the showpiece of the quarry and since the big clean up is now home to a cluster of new routes that had never been done due to the fact there were hidden beneath a mass of brambles and bushes in the past. The next bay along the north side of the quarry has slightly steeper, more featured lines with routes that follow obvious groove lines and arêtes as well a handful of slab routes on the left side of the bay. There is at present only one route that has been recorded on the south side of the quarry. There is a lot of potential on these walls for new routes for anyone who might be interested.

The best effort has been made to record the details of existing routes as accurately as possible. It has been at times quite an effort to try and make the descriptions from the last guide fit, especially after the extreme clean up the crag has undergone. A lot of loose rock has been cleaned from the walls and in doing so features once described as reference points on routes are less obvious or in some cases not there anymore. As none of the climbing on the slabs is particularly hard it has been possible to climb every line on the slab; which has resulted in a handful of new routes being added, so that no climbs are missing from the text. In some cases routes have been climbed as new routes when they take in part of an existing route but since the clean up are now able to take more logical lines to the top and so a new route has been formed. The route Wish You Were Here that was recorded in the last guide has been superseded by The Beaver Bus as it only went half way up the slab before traversing off to finish as for Unlucky Dip which has been superseded by Deforestation that is now able to traverse the slab in its entirety since the clean up.


 

Ownership of the quarry is unclear. There is no access agreement for Granitethorpe Quarry. People have been asked to leave in the past. If you get asked to leave don’t make any fuss just leave, you are trespassing.

The following route descriptions are included on this site only as a historical record and are not included to encourage climbing.

 

THE CLIMBS

Routes are described from left to right.

1.  Path VS 4c 20m **

A good route that takes a direct line up the left side of the slab. Start just left of a roof half way down the bank on the left side of the slab. The first move is the crux. The route has good gear and good moves on good rock, enjoy.

FA Robin Richmond 15.4.10 solo

2. Beaversatile E1 5b 25m

Start at the bottom left corner of the Great Slab. The route climbs the thin crack that takes a direct line up the left side of the lower slab. At the ledge carefully scramble up to a ledge below the final steep slab. Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab.

FA Robin Richmond Max Cole 20.4.10

3 The Beaver Bus E2 5b * 25m

From the base of the slab follow a very thin crack slightly rightwards to the loose ledge at half height. Ascend the choss to a ledge, climb the thin crack above to the top.

FA Robin Richmond 23.3.10 solo

4. Beaverycalm 8m V5 *

An eliminate boulder problem squeezed in between the two obvious lines up the slab. Climb the slab between the two routes without using any of the holds on either route. At 4m the climbing becomes very thin and delicate with crux moves leading to good holds. Finish either up or down The Beaver Bus.

FA Robin Richmond 19.4.10

5 Ride The Beaver! E2 5b *

Start 2m right of T.B.B. Climb the slab following a diagonal crack until it is possible to step back left on large holds. Climb direct to the top of the lower slab and onto the chossy middle section. Carefully climb up onto a ledge and follow the thin crack above to the top.

FA Robin Richmond 15.4.10 solo

 

 


1. Path VS 4c

2. Beaversatile E1 5b

3. The Beaver Bus E2 5b

4. Beaverycalm V5

5. Ride the Beaver! E2 5b

 

 

 

 



6 Spaff HVS 4b 23m

Climb the slab to a ledge 4m below the top.  A short groove leads to the top.

FA Gaz 13.3.10 solo

7 Dirty 27m HS 4b

From the ledge in the middle of the slab take a rising line leftwards across the slab. Keeping about 1m right of the mud and vegetation ascend the slab gradually moving back right to the finish of The Weatherman up the short groove left of the blocky overhangs.

FA Robin Richmond 23.3.10 solo

8. Soil 26m HS 4b

From the left end of the ledge in the middle of the slab move left until a direct line can be taken into the groove above.

FA Max Cole 23.3.10 solo

9 The Ripper 24m HS 4c

From the ledge take a direct line to and through the blocky overhangs.

S. Neal, 1989.

10 Straight Up S 4a

From the ledge take a direct line to the top keeping just right of the blocky overhangs.

FA Unknown

11 Very Difficult VD

Take a direct line 2m right of the last route.

FA Unknown

12 The Weatherman S 4a

From the ledge move right to climb a slight arête feature in the slab. Where the angle eases trend left beneath the blocky overhangs. Climb the slab/groove to the left of these to finish.

13. Ooh how severe! HS 4b

Climb rightwards for 5m from the ledge at the bottom of the slab before heading up onto another ledge. From here climb the smooth slab above trending back left to the top.

FA Unknown

14. Deforestation HVD 45m

Start on the half height ledge on the right end of the Great Slab. Traverse leftwards across the slab to finish on the muddy slope at the left end of the slab.

FA Massa Sakano Richard Hill 21.3.10

 

 

6. Spaff HVS 5b

7. Dirty HS 4b

8. Soil HS 4b

9. The Ripper HS 4c

10. Straight Up S 4a

11. Very Difficult VD

12. The Weatherman S 4a

13. Ooh how severe! HS 4b

 

 

 


To the right of the Great Slab is a bay. It is possible to scramble down to the routes via the grassy ramp at the Great Slab side of the bay although approach by abseil is probably best.

15. Slab route direct S 24m

Start in the centre of the bay. Climb the slab direct. Poor.

G. Kelham, 21 Dec. 1974.

The next five routes all start from the obvious ledge at the bottom of the slabs on the right side of the bay;

16. Afternoon Stroll 24m HS 4b

From the left end of the ledge climb the slab leftwards through a small overlap  before     heading up the slab keeping left of the groove on you right.

G. Kelham, 21 Dec. 1974.

17. Slab route 1

From the left end of the ledge climb the slab trending slightly left to gain and follow the slabby groove above.

FA Unknown

18. Slab route 2

Climb the slab and to the arête and follow it to the top.

FA unknown

19. Picnic 21m VS 4c

Keeping just left of the corner climb the slab direct.

FA unknown

20. Harry is a Sandbag VS 4c

Climb the corner, where it is possible make crux moves onto the right wall of the corner which is followed to the top.

FA S Neal 1988

21. Hydro VD

Start at the right side of the slab and climb the steep groove up onto the upper slab left of Hydrotactic. Climb the slab keeping just right of the arête.

22. Hydrotactic HS 4b

Climb the obvious groove to the top.

J. Gale and K.S. Vickers, May 1972.

23. In Drag E1 5b 18m

Start 3m up Hydrotactic under a small overhang. Climb to the top direct.

S. Neal, 10 I July 1990.

24. Rock 'n' Roll Suicide 16m E1 5a

Start as for Hydrotactic 1m up the groove. Make crux moves to gain entry to a vague groove line that runs from right to left across the crag finishing just right of In Drag. The start is the crux above here the climbing is never hard but the protection is minimal. There are some narrow horizontal breaks which could take skyhook placements.

S. Neal, 6 April 1990.

25. Rupert Goes Hiking 6m HS

The obvious groove.

K. Vickers and J. Gale, June 1972.

26. Moon Age Day Dream 6m HVS 5a *

A good route. The climb takes a line up the centre of the smooth slabby buttress on the right side of the bay. Towards the top it is possible to get the sequence wrong (it’s still good though) and the moves feel more 5c than 5a. Wires protect.

FA J. Gale, A. Ingram and K.S. Vickers, June 1972

FFA S. Neal, 7Aug. 1991

 

15. Slab Route Direct S

16. Afternoon Stroll HS 4b

17. Slab route 1

18. Slab route 2

19. Picnic VS 4c

20. Harry is a Sandbag VS 4c

21. Hydro VD

22. Hydrotactic HS 4b

23. In Drag E1 5b

24. Rock 'n' Roll Suicide

25. Rupert goes Hiking HS

26. Moon Age Day Dream HVS 5a


On the other side of the quarry there is a large platform. Above it, on the left, is an overhanging arête. The route did not get any attention when the rest of the quarry was cleaned up. It is currently unclimbable as it is completely covered in ivy. The route was originally graded E7 6b but was repeated by D Hughes solo, and then reversed; whilst eating a bag of chips that he found, as he hadn’t bothered to put a rope in situ to lower off from!

26. Ghengis 7m E3 5b

Climb the arête not using the crack on the right. Protection at about half height in the form of a small nut on top of a loose block. The nut also helps stop the block moving when you hang on it. On reaching the top of the arête (crux) there is no exit through the undergrowth. You should climb down or lower off from a rope hung over the top of the crag.

S. Neal, 4 Feb. 1992.