Leicestershire Climbs

climbing in Leicestershire

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Home Crag Y

Situation and Character

The pink granite walls of Crag Y are to the people in the know regarded as being the counties premier sport crag.  The climbing is superb, all the routes share the typical Crag Y characteristic of being good value and surprisingly technical when they look fairly straight forward on first acquaintances. The rock quality is first class with clean monolithic walls of pink granite up to 10m in height that host a variety of  styles of climbs from arêtes, corners, shallow grooves, and blank faces.

Approach and Access

Hawcliffe Quarry or Crag Y is situated on the Quorn – Thurcaston road. Turn left off the old A6 at the first mini roundabout signposted for Thurcaston. Follow this for about a mile and park on the left by the entrance to a field on a right hand bend. Go into the field and follow the hedge for apx. 50m, a slight track leads off left through the hedge. Continue through the trees until you are in a clearing. You are now on top of Crag Y. Get digging.

Alas the quarry has been landscaped and there is no more climbing at Crag Y. The routes that were climbed have been written up as a historical record.

The Climbs

The routes are described from left to right looking in at the crag.

Wolfblais F6c+

A good find, the route takes the overhanging groove on the left of the crag. Move up the wall and into the groove. Make crux moves to and through the lip of the groove to an easy finish.

R Richmond D Hughes

Five Plus F6b+

Harder than it looked! Climb the steep wall 2m left of the corner.

R Richmond, D Hughes

Vampires F6a+

The original route on the wall. Start up the big corner and follow this until it is possible to move right onto the arête. Climb the arête to the top.

Steve Allen

Vampires Direct F7a+

Just right of the arête are a line of holds leading up and back left to the arête at 2.5m. Follow these with interest and the arête above. Superb.

R Richmond, M Richardson, D Hughes

Quornburger F7c+

The deceptively easy looking central groove/crackline took a big effort from local strongman Dave Hughes with him having to take a week off work to get it done. The thought of the route maybe being the magic grade of 8a and someone else sneaking on to steal the prize was enough to ensure success. Alas F8a it was not though, and still the magic grade evades Big Dave Huge!

D Hughes

Petzl Jump 7a+

Right of Quornburger is a blank wall. Climb it with interest.

Steve Allen