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Home Charnwood Quarry

Charnwood Quarry

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Situation & Character

The majority of climbing in Charnwood Quarry is on the slabs that line the south west side of the pit. Nanpantan Slab is visible from the M1 when

travelling south approaching J23. The Nanpantan Slab is the show piece of the quarry, the routes are all around 40m long and all require a steady

head for the lead. None of the other slabs and walls in the rest of the quarry are anywhere near as big as the Nanpantan Slab but never the less

they home to an ever increasing amount of short action packed micro routes.

 

Approach & Access

 

The quarry is easily approached from J23 of the M1. Follow the A512 towards Shepshed. At the first set of traffic lights turn left (Ingleberry Rd).

Follow this back under the M1 and park on the verge by Longliffe Lodge Farm. Follow the footpath across the field, at the far side turn left along

the hedge (towards motorway). Enter the quarry just before the end of the field where the hedge thins out. From here a small track leads off down

into the quarry. The top of Nanpantan Slab and the 2nd tier slabs are to your right as you descend into the quarry. Looking into the quarry with your

back to the motorway the slabs can be seen on your right. Climbers should be aware that once they turn left and leave the footpath to head down

the field towards the motorway before entering the quarry they are no longer following a public right of way. The farmer has expressed no objection

to climbers crossing his field as long as the fence does not get damaged from people climbing it to enter the quarry. Obviously this is a good

relationship that could quite easily turn sour if fences get damaged and are not repaired by those responsible.

Nanpantan Slab

The climbing on Nanpantan Slab is of a serious nature with routes often having long run outs between marginal gear placements. The seriousness

of the routes is highlighted by the low technical grades against the relatively high objective grade of the routes. It is recommended that as well as

having micro wires, r.p’s, small and medium wires, leaders should also have sky hooks on there rack. There value as pieces of protection is debatable

but at the same time it is better than nothing! There are also small cam placements on some of the routes. Once you know them the routes feel easy

and soft for the grade but the grade is for the onsight lead and they feel worthy of the grades given under those circumstances. Top roping these routes

is a cop out, don’t be a wuz get on the sharp end. The climbing is never hard just a bit scary, don’t freak out; have a word with yourself if it all starts to

seem a bit much and press on you’ll soon be at the top!

Routes are described from right to left;

1    The Seventh Curse E2 5b 42m

The longest route on the slab taking a rising diagonal line from right to left across the slab. Starting at the right hand toe of the slab move up before

traversing left, past small wires on the Fifth Columnist. Make a tricky sequence left into Fourth Protocol where more good protection can be arranged.

Continue left to First Blood where the last good protection can be arranged. Move 1m up First Blood before crux moves are to be made to pass

through Sixth Sense and onto Third Degree at its crux. Move halfway through the crux of Third Degree before heading off left (2nd crux) to Second

Coming. Move up this route for 1m before taking a diagonal line to the tree at the top left corner of the wall. Take care on the top section as the rock is

of a poorer quality than on the rest of the slab.

Robin Richmond, Ed Proctor 14.3.09


2    Fifth Columnist HVS 4b 37m *

The least steep route on the slab. Climb the right edge of the slab keeping  just left of the right edge all the way. Small wires protect.

Paul Ramsden Geoff Hornby

 

3    Henry VIII E1 4c 37m *

Start 4m left of the right edge of the slab. Take a direct line up the slab to meet Fourth Protocol 6m below the top. Finish as for Fourth Protocol.

Robin Richmond, Scott Chidlow 15.3.09

 

4    Fourth Protocol E2 4c 39m **

3m right of First Blood is another vague weakness running up the slab. Follow this past good gear at 10m. From hear run it out passing sky hook

placements. Continue direct to arrive on a good ledge just below the top. A wire out left protects the tricky final moves.

Geoff Hornby, Paul Ramsden

 

5    First Blood HVS 4c 38m **

The original route on the slab follows the line of weakness up its centre. The climbing is never hard and the protection is reasonable. There is a bolt 5m

below the top which protects the final moves of the route. The bolt does not have a hanger on it; hang a wire over the head. From here the quality of the

rock deteriorates and there is also a layer of mud that has washed over the top to deal with! This is the original finish which was lead onsight; the leader

had to make steps in the mud to make it to the top! Alternatively it is possible to move right into the next route and finish for that. Probably better.

Paul Ramsden, Geoff Hornby

 

6    Sixth Sense E5 5c 37m ***

A good route taking a direct line up the slab between Third Degree and First Blood. Technically easy climbing with only 2 5c moves on it but with joke

protection make this an easy E5 tick for those with the balls to get on it. Where Third Degree goes left and First Blood goes right go straight up to a

borehole (good friend 5). From here continue up with only sky hook placements for protection to the top.

Paul Ramsden Geoff Hornby March 2009

 

7    Third Degree E3 5b 38m ***

Start as for First Degree after 4m trend left following a line of weakness in the rock. The crux is where the line straightens up before heading back right

to the top. The route is protected by small wires.

Paul Ramsden, Geoff Hornby

 

8    Second Coming E1 4b 38m *

Follows the obvious line of weakness on the left side of the slab. Start below the tree at 10m. climb the slab up to this and follow the obvious rising line

up rightwards to the top. The climbing is good but the protection is not, don’t think about it to much you’ll be alright!

Paul Ramsden, Geoff Hornby

 

9    The Ninth Gate E1 5a 20m

The route starts from the base of the upper tier. Step off the tier and move up a short shallow groove for 5m. At the top of the groove take a line

parallel to Second Coming to the top.

Robin Richmond solo 4.04.09

 

10   Cameraman HVS 4a 20m

The route starts from the base of the upper tier. Step off the tier and climb the wall direct keeping apx 1m right of the corner.

Masa Sakano solo 31.05.09

 

The 1st Tier

 

H78 Wall

 

The H78 Wall is situated apx 80m left (looking in) from Nanpantan Slab. H78 is written on the back of a boulder in front of the wall. The wall

immediately behind the H78 boulder has an overlap at two thirds height. The corner dividing the wall into two halves is H78 corner.

 

11   H78 Corner VS 4b 10m

Climb the corner. Take care, the rock is very loose.

Masa Sakano

 

12   H78 Crack HVS 5b 10m

Nicer (but harder) alternative to H78. Follow the crack in the slab 1m left of the corner to the overlap. Climb the headwall above direct making

a point of not straying to far right; the rock is very loose. The initial crack of Determination can be climbed instead to the overlap before moving

back to finish as for the original line at the same grade.

Masa Sakano 31.05.09

 

13   Determination E3 6a 10m *

So far the best route on the H78 wall. Climb the obvious finger crack in the centre of the wall to the overlap. Move left into a niche where protection

can be placed before committing to the crux. From the niche move rightwards round the overlap to a good horizontal crack where bomber gear can

be placed to protect the top wall which is climbed direct.

Masa Sakano on 2 June 2009

 

14   Vicky’s Stockings S 4a 12m

Climb the cracked slab taking care at the top with the loose blocks on the right.

FA Simon Rankine 13th April 2009

 

15   Little Monkey F6a * 15m

Start at the lowest point of the slab and climb the line of bolts. High first bolt but; nuts/friends protect. If water is high it may be necessary to abseil

in from the boulder above.

P Birchall and S Smith 30.05.09


16   Wild Goose Chase VS 4c 12m

A good route taking a right to left diagonal line across the slab. From the base of the slab follow a crackline past the obvious half height gear slot to

a mantelshelf onto the sloping ledge. Finish more easily up loose rock.

Mark Rankine 13th April 2009

17   Mother Goose VS 4b 12m

From the foot of the slab at the detached flake, climb boldly to the gear slot and continue in the same line, finishing just right of the block.

Mark Rankine 14th April 2009

18  Juicy Goosey VS 4b 10m

The left arête of the slab.

R. Richmond solo May ‘09

19   Homage to Hezmond E1 4c 18m

A route of contrasting halves; the first half is on relatively sound rock but the rock in the second halve is of a dire standard and at the time of going

to press, very dirty. There is no protection, the climbing is never hard especially in the second half of the route but is of a particularly serious nature.

The climb is situated at the far left end of the bottom tier just beyond the scree and takes a meandering line initially up the right side of a short

compact wall before traversing back left just below a steepening in the rock until it is possible to move onto the slabby choss features above through

which the line staggers its way leftwards to escape on to the tier above.

P. Baxter


 

The 2nd Tier

 

21   Good Crack HS 4b *

Climb the steep crack through the overlap and onto the slab. Follow the crack to the top.

Robin Richmond solo 1.04.09

Good Crack has suffered a major rock fall. As far as we know it has not been re-climbed since. It will probably be renamed Dodgy Arête as the whole of the right side of the crack has fallen away.

 

 

22 Slab & Crack     HVS 5b 20m *

From the start of Slip Central climb the edge of the slab rightwards to gain and follow the thin crack for 5m. Move right and follow the continuation crack

to the top.

Robin Richmond Richard Lucas 4.04.09

 

23   Slip Central E1 6a 20m *

Super thin smearing up the left side of the smooth shiny slab immediately left of Nanpantan Slab lies ahead for anyone jumping on this little gem. The

first 5m forms the crux of the route after which it is possible to step right onto a good foothold. From here climb direct taking care with loose rock at the

top.

Robin Richmond solo 2.04.09

 

24   Avalanche Corner HVS 4c 20m

Climb the left corner of the slab to a worrying finish.

Masa Sakano 4.04.09

 

25   Gillingham Girls HS 4b 25m *

To the left of the main slab this route is a good quick way of accessing the second tier. Climb the right side of the slab until forced back left beneath

bulges to follow good holds to the top.

Geoff Hornby, Peter Bishop, Mark Evans

 

26   The Lost Wave HVS 4c **

Good climbing on perfect rock, this route takes a line from the left end of the slab and follows a ripple/wave 1.5m above the lip of the slab. Small

wires a third of the way across the slab protect delicate moves right following a line of holds right wards which lead on to the top of the slab  At the

centre of the arch formed by the lower edge of the slab climb direct to top out with care on loose rock at the top.

Robin Richmond solo 1.04.09

27   Temptation E1 5a * 12m

The bottom of a slim hanging groove half way up the right hand side of the slab is gained by climbing the wall below direct. Once in the groove follow

it to the top. Take care; some of the rock may be a little loose.

Masa Sakano 29.09.09


28   Dave’s Slab VD 12m

Climb the right side of the slab following the obvious line of weakness to the top.

D. Maunder  M. Rankine 14.4.09


29   The Slaboratory HVS 4c ** 12m

Good climbing up the smooth slab left of Dave’s Slab. Climb the centre of the slab direct trending slightly right above the small overlap before heading

back left to the top.

Robin Richmond solo 23.04.09

30 Jacko S 12m. The pale flaky unprotected slab ten metres right of Groove is in the arse is bad. It’s all in the name. P Birchall and L Harding/Cox 25.07.09

31      Groove is in the arse, HS 4a, 15m. Not as good as the previous route but easier. Climbs the right side of the groove. Small friend (zero) protects the moves near the top. P Birchall and L Harding/Cox June 09

32      Cherry Blossom, HVS 4c *15m. Above the previous route is an undercut slab. At the right end of this is an attractive curving scoop. Start at the lowest point. As soon as you step up into the scoop climb directly up the left hand side by pleasant but not well protected moves, then following the ripples back right. P Birchall and M Cullwick 18.04.09



The 3rd Tier

The next three routes are situated on The Scarface; a double overlapped slab immediately left of Nanpantan slab;

 

34      Nick the Pig   F4* 12m

The right hand line of bolts. Nice.

Robin Richmond, Louise Pymm 14.3.09

 

35      Tony Montana F5+ * 12m

The central line of bolts. V. good.

Robin Richmond, Louise Pymm 14.3.09

 

36      Hector the Toad F5 * 12m

The left hand line of bolts. Great.

Robin Richmond, Paul Ramsden 21.3.09

On the next slab;

37      Grumpy Old Men HVD 4b 12m

This route follows the crack 1m left of the right arête of the slab.

Geoff Hornby, Peter Bishop, Mark Evans


38      Old Timers S 4b 20m

A diagonal line that follows the line of weakness to the right of Miserable Gits.

Robin Richmond solo 2.04.09

 

39      B.O.F. HVS 4b 20m

Climb the line of weakness in the centre of the slab.

Robin Richmond solo 2.04.09

 

40      The Cynics HVS 4b 20m

From the start of B.O.F take a direct line up the slab. Keep to the right at the top to avoid the bad rock.

Robin Richmond solo 2.04.09

 

Left again is a steeper slab with a diagonal crack rising from left to right across it;

 

41      Not to bad HVS 5a 10m *

Not to bad climbing up the right side of the face. Climb easily on big holds to half way where good protection can be placed in the thin crack. Follow

the crack to its end and climb the face above on positive holds. Take care with the rock when topping out.

Robin Richmond, Paul Ramsden 21.3.09

 

42      Pretty Good HVS 5b 10m *

Pretty good climbing up the thin crack that crosses the diagonal of Dust till Dusk. Start1.5m right of the start of Dusk till Dusk. Follow the thin crack

to the top.

Robin Richmond solo 22.4.09

 

43      Dust ‘till Dusk S 4b 12m **

An excellent route that takes the natural line of the rising diagonal from right to left across the face. The rock is good, the gear is good and the moves

are good, enjoy.

Robin Richmond, Ed Proctor 14.3.09

44      Slightly Better E2 5c 10m * The route climbs the thin crack directly above the start of Dust ‘til Dusk. The first half of the route is slightly better than the last section which is                  loose. Massa Sakano 11.08.09

Past an area of steep loose rock is;

 

45      Loup E5 6a 12m**

Good, uncharacteristically steep climbing is to be found on this route. The gear feels spaced but what you do get is bomber. Start below the flake

which runs up the lower slab. Make a big stretch to gain this and climb it. From a standing position on the top of the flake place a bomber skyhook in

a thin horizontal seem above your head before moving up and right until it is possible to place small wires in the bottom of small crack. Continue up to

a flake beneath a roof below the top headwall. Place more good gear before committing to the top wall with conviction.

Robin Richmond, Tony Hextall 23.04.09

The next slab that has routes recorded on it is another 20m left again;

The Flaky Wall

 

46      Reedy HVS 4a 20m

Take care with this one, it is very flaky! Climb the short groove at the base of the slab and rock onto the slab almost joining the start of Rich.

Move right and into a vague groove which is followed to the top. Take care; very loose.

Robin Richmond, Scott Chidlow 5.04.09

 

47      Rich HVS 4a 20m

Another flaky one! Climb the vague central groove of the slab throughout.

Robin Richmond solo 2.04.09

 

On the next slab;

 

48      Don’t forget your sun cream HS 4a 20m

Start in front of a jumble of boulders, between two small saplings at the right most side of the slab. Climb over a broken area of rock to a thin crack

angling left. Follow the crack until it finishes then continue straight up the slab.
Michael Dennis 4.07.09

At the left end of the upper tier is a concave curving slab with two trees at its base. This is The Leper’s Face

 

49      The Leper E1 4c 20m

Start by the right hand of two trees at the base of the slab. Keep to the right of an obvious weakness and follow a slanting line up the slab to finish just

right of a broken area of rock at the top of the slab.

Robin Richmond solo 2.04.09

 

50      Lazar House E2 5a 20m

Climb a parallel line 2m left of The Leper until 3m below an obvious layer of bad rock. From here take a line directly up the slab.

Robin Richmond, Max Cole 7.10.09

51 Lob Worm, F4+, 22m. Climbs the big dark slab to the left of The Leper’s Face. A line of bolts leads the way. First ascent P Birchall and L Harding/Cox 25.07.09


 

The North Side

 

At the time of going to press we have only two routes recorded on the north side of the quarry. The routes take lines up the largest slab on this side of the

quarry which is located at the bottom of the main track to the left of the pool. The majority of the rock on the slab is completely rotten and frighteningly loose.

It may clean up with traffic but will probably never receive the required attention. The only descent pieces of protection on the routes are slings around the

trees that are to be found on the main part of the slab. The climbing on the first pitch is just as serious for the second as it is for the leader due to the non

direct nature of this pitch, the bad rock and a total absence of any descent protection.

 

54 Tree Frogs E3 5b, 4c

1.25m Start amongst the small trees at the bottom of the slab. Climb up onto a ledge before traversing left and making very delicate moves across a

broken section of rock containing a band of quartz to gain the main slab proper. Make bold moves above joke protection up the slab until a tree is reached

which is the first decent runner on the pitch. Continue up the slab to belay on two birch trees.

2.25m            Follow an obvious line left across the slab before heading up into a loose blocky corner which is followed to the top.

Tom Ireson, Gareth Leah 29.04.09

 

An alternative second pitch;

Tree Frogs Direct E3 5b

2. 20m Follow an obvious line left across the slab for 5m. Climb directly up the smooth slab above to the top in an increasingly serious position.

Robin Richmond, Max Cole 7.10.09

 


 

1. The Seventh Curse E2 5b
2. The Fifth Columnist HVS 4b
3. Henry VIII E1 4c
4. Fourth Protocol E2 4c
5. First Blood HVS 4c
6. Sixth Sense E5 5c
7. Third Degree E3 5b
8. Second Coming E1 4b
9. The Ninth Gate E1 5a
10. Cameraman HVS 4a
11. H78 corner VS 4b
12. H78 crack HVS 5b
13. Determination E3 6a
14. Vicky's Stockings S 4a
15. Little Monkey F6a
16.  Mother Goose VS 4b 
17.  Wild Goose Chase VS 4c 
18. Juicey Goosey VS 4b
19. Homage to Hezmond E1 4c
20. Long Way Out (P1) VS 4b
21. Good Crack HS 4b
22. Slab & Crack HVS 5b
23. Slip Central E3 6a
24. Avalanche Corner HVS 4c
25. Gillingham Girls HS 4b
26. The Lost Wave HVS 4c
27. Temptation E1 5a
28. Dave's Slab VD
29. The Slaboratory HVS 4c
30. Jacko S
31. Groove is in the Arse HS 4a
32. Cherry Blossom HVS 4c
33. Long Way Out (P2) VS 4a
34. Nick the Pig F4
35. Tony Montana F5+
36. Hector the Toad F5
37.Grumpy Old Men HVD

38. Old Timers S

39. B.O.F HVS 4b
40. The Cynics HVS 4b
41. Not to Bad HVS 5a
42. Pretty Good HVS 5b
43. Dust 'til Dusk S 4b
44.  Loup E5 6a 
45.  Reedy HVS 4a 
46.  Rich HVS 4a 
47.  Don't forget the sun cream HS 4a 
48.  The Leper E1 4c 
49. Lazar House E2 5a